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This is a buy guide for your first skates, I assume that the reader does not have idea of skates great in general, so everything will try to explain it, for basic or obvious that should seem to that we already take years inside the world. Also you have one introduction guide to the skates in line where find out of more things.

In Line Skates Buying Guide - What Skates to Buy

So you want to enter this wonderful sport. Well, the first thing that you need are a few skates: but which to buy? On the market today we have the biggest offer, from 50 euros up to 350.

The first thing that one has that knowledge is that there are two principal types of skates: the traditional skates, which have 2 axes of two wheels each one (the everlasting ones) and the new skates in line, where every skate is provided with 4 wheels in line (sometimes 3 or 5 for very specializing skates).

The traditional skates keep on using for the hockey skates and for artistic, while the new skates in line use for hockey line, speed careers, freeskate, slalom, offroad (or todoterreno) and aggressive skating (in the skate parks).

Finally, one owes of knowledge that the skates in line subdivide in different types according to the use that one wants to give to him. The skates of, for example, hockey line, aggressive or speed they are very different if, up to the point of that one cannot cover with skates of aggressive, and it is impossible to do tricks in the ramaps of a skate park with hockey skates.

If he wants to know more of types of skates, in the section types of skates I speak extensively about it.

I only want to have Fun Skating and learn the Basics of Skating, turn, brake, and amuse myself: What do I buy?

Nobody has been born being still able skate. That's why the majority of the people who today practises a type or other of skating, started by the fitness, also called recreational skating. Somewhere here it is where it is necessary to begin.

The fitness skates or recreational they are usually designed for a skating outdoors, for streets, squares or avenues. Also they can be used to move comfortably for the city. For all this, many people who practises other forms (hockey, aggressive, speed, etc) usually have, in addition to the skates for this activity, some fitness or recreational to do street skating, since they usually others worse and get damaged produce. (quite the one that can allow it to himself, reserves the hockey skates / aggressively / speed for the track and uses the fitness for the street).

For all this, it is clear that to begin skating we need unso fitness skates.

Before going to the Skate Shop: Know what the seller will tell you.

Before going of skates shop , to compare models and prices one must know although it is only superficially the parts and the most basic characteristics of the skates. Here I write a small list of these parts, the types that can exist, and which are better or worse according to the use that let's want to give him. (If you want, you can aim at this in a role and take it like reference while you see skates):

  • Wheels - wheels of the skates fitness they have 2 principal characteristics: hardness and diameter (size). The hardness measures itself in 'To'. Ejeplo: Some 90th are very very hard wheels, and some 74th are very very soft. Some 82nd would be in the way. The softer, mças they fight but tambiñen they usually wear out earlier. If you are his first skate, buy something intermediate (80, 82,83) it will be easier. Then is the size, measures itself in millimeters: Between 74mm and 78mm it is the ideal thing to learn. The big ones go so far as to measure 90 or 100mm and the kidlings even 50mm. That do not cheat him: a few bigger wheels NOT, I repeat: It does not mean that the skates run more. A few too big wheels will do that the skates have small maneuverability (it was difficult to him to turn), you will be more difficult to start from stopped, and the WORST THING for someone who learns: it will skate very highly with with regard to the soil, that is to say, it will have poquisima stability. Buy a few small wheels, him everything will be easier. What does that a few skates run very much, there are our legs. I have written much more on wheels in: types of wheels of skates
  • Bearings - Is what goes inside the wheel, between this one and the screw. This is what reduces the friction. It measures itself in ABEC, so there are bearings types ABEC 1, ABEC 3, ABEC 5 and then 7 and 9. 1 sound the worst and the 9 the best. EYE! The ABEC 7 and 9 are usually very delicate, if he does not know what it does, it might break them in a few days. That do not cheat him in this either: a few abec of major graduaccion it does not mean that the skates run more. (the speed limit of the ABEC 1 is of more of 500km/h before they melt of the heat). Anyhow ultiammente almost do not sell skates with ABEC 1. It will have to choose between ABEC 3 or 5, and the reality is that to start it gives exactly equally, the difference (against what the manufacturer says or seller) is not so big. What does that a few skates run very much, there are our legs. If he wants to know more on bearings, also I have written: skates bearings
  • Boot - The boot is where we put the foot. For this type of skates they are done of mixed materials: textile and plastic harder. Principally choose the one that weighs less, him is nicer and especially: he had left better.
  • Frames - In the skates of aggressive skating, make sure that guides should be a type UFS, so you will be able to dismantle it and intercambiarala for any other one guide UFS to the being to be a standard in the industry (although originally desarrolado for USD )
  • Closings - The closings are usually of two types: drawstrings and adaptable buckles of plastic. In practice, the drawstrings do not do very much, they are more, many people they have untied them. What really fits the skate is the buckle to the ankle. Some skates have 3 plastic buckles, I do not recommend this, since in addition to being quite ugly, the lower buckles end up by breaking on having been more exposed. Some more expensive models can have a few wide tapes of Velcro or a buckle (thinner than that of the ankle) in the instep: both closing mechanisms are very good and highly advisable. (much better that the drawstrings that as we have already said, simply they do not hold).
    Stranger can dream The matter of the drawstrings, I will explain myself: so that a few skates remain exact, we have to "curve" or "double" little sides until they remain exact to the foot, as we would do in a few shoes or normal boots. For very loudly that you are, it cannot try to double semirigid pieces of the skates with a few drawstrings: the bond or knot will always remain slack. On the other hand, with the buckles or velcros of the antepie, thanks to the fact that they usually take a gear assembly deslizante and a lever in the hebilals and a pulley in the Velcro, we can curve the hard parts of the skate lightly until they remain well exact. It has his logic. IT NOTICES: The skates of alone hockey have drawstrings, but these only have the toecap and the heel rigid, the rest of the boot is textile and they can fit well. You prop the cane it is lower.

Skating Break Pedal: Is it useful?

Facts that he must know about the brakes: The traditional skates have the brake AHEAD and in BOTH skates, while the newest skates in line have ONLY ONE I brake and also it is BEHIND. The brake of the skate in line is usually a block of gum that is placed behind the last wheel of the right skate (normally) and that on having raised the front of the skate while we leave the supported heel, it rubs against the soil and brakes us. This is the theory, in practice the brakes are quite useless.

In fact, no skates model for careers, hockey or aggressive it comes with brake. Simply they do not bring it from factory because it is useless. In the skates of fitness or of street, most of models if they come with brake, but in the majority of these cases they can come out. It is true that the brake can be very useful in the first skating meetings, when one is still concentrated in not falling down. but after a few exits, 4 or 5, as soon as we learn to move ourselves in straight line, and to turn aside and to other, we will realize that the brake is an obstacle for many movements. My Advice: Buy a few skates with brake, but MAKE SURE that can dismount. This there is done by 2 keys Allen (hexagonal keys) that they usually include in the box on having bought a few new skates. make sure also that give him a spare screw lightly shorter, so to take from him the brake, (for this it is necessary to dismantle the last wheel), the longest screw that uses the brake him will not be useful, he will need the shorter one.

Since I have already said, the majority of models includes the keys and a game of screws of spare to be already able to take the brake from him from the first day, since there are great the skaters who never go so far as to use it. If he wants to use the brake or not, it is a personal election. I recommend to him to start by using it, and when I already dominate the basic skills of turning, you advance, etc, he learns to "to brake in T" , that is like most of skaters really it brakes. Then, remove the brake and edges great as desire at large of movements.

It notices: in long routes with very much difference, to save wheels and not to punish very much the knee, there are many skaters that if they put themselves the brake punctually. It notices 2: This brake is the normal one, some manufacturers have special brakes with proprietary names. The effectiveness of all these types of brakes is very relative. I do not recommend to pay to him any more for a "special" brake. The skates will not be surer because they have a more expensive brake.

Buy Skating Pads, which ones?

Normally if one has just done a payment buying to him a few skates, quite one does not very want to be bought also protection game , that sometimes and if they are good you can turn out to be very expensive. But curiously, in our skater's life we will never need any more protections than the first times that we skate. This creates an interesting paradox to us.

Them types of protections more normal are: wristbands, knee pads, elbow patches and helmet.

Those that more we will use will be undoubtedly the wristbands. If one is a little agile, before any more or less normal fall, we can place the hands rather than the rest of the body and roll. To be able "to put the arm and roll" is what does one that takes enough time skating, unlike "falling down and giving a dry blow" that is the worst thing that we can do. The wristbands also are the protections that less bother.

On the other hand, the protection that of length less we will use will be the helmet, but to all lights with which we use it only ONCE, we will have already promoted the investment, it has cost what it has cost us.

And in an intermediate putno we have knee pads and elbow patches. It is necessary to emphasize that the knee pads use enough more than the elbow patches.

Buying or not (and to use them then) protections is a personal election. Nobody raises to fall down for supesto, but being realists, nobody has learned to skate without falling down one day. Also, it is not necessary to be intetando to do anything much expectacular with the skates, the serious injuries where you do a sprain or break to yourself, they come to a skater with many years of experience while it was stopped extracting the mobile of the pocket. These things happen, an accident is an accident.

If one cannot allow himself the best protections , at least it should go a basic game. If the most economic in a specializing skates shop turn out to be too expensive to us for our pocket (that should not be so, position that the specializing shops usually have models for all the pockets), in last resource we can go to the big one I superentrusted toyshop where for a price realemte low, bajisimo, a pack or protection bag meet to us on wristbands, rodilles and elbow patches. The quality will not be very high: but it is much better that not to take anything!

If he wants, he can visit ours proteciones Guide

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